How to Replace an RV Waste Valve Handle

How to Replace an RV Waste Valve Handle

The waste valve, or dump valve, refers to the piece near the end of the sewage pipe that controls your RV's sewer line. On the valve itself, there is a T-shaped handle used to open or shut the valve. When the waste valve handle isn't...

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How to Replace an RV Waste Valve Handle

Fixing a Broken T-Handle

  1. Order a replacement handle for your RV's waste valve. If the plastic or metal T-handle at the end of the extension rod broke off, order a replacement T-handle online. These pieces are not universal, so order a replacement handle from your drain valve's manufacturer. The manufacturer's name is typically printed directly on the handle, but you can also find the name on a sticker of the drain valve itself.[1]
    1. The handle often breaks after a few years of use because it's used to slide the extension rod in and out. Repeatedly pulling and pushing the handle will cause the threading to wear down and it will eventually break.
    2. There are a few third-party replacements you can buy for the common 72 in (180 cm) rods. These third-party handles are typically plastic though, and the original metal handles are much stronger.
    3. A replacement handle will cost you $3-10.

    Tip: There are technically 4 parts of the waste valve handle. The valve itself, the valve rod that sticks out the side of the valve, the extension rod which attaches to the valve rod, and the T-handle at the end. This process only applies to a broken T-handle, but you may need to replace the extension rod if it's bent, or the entire valve if it leaks.

  2. Slide the extension rod out 1–2 in (2.5–5.1 cm) and grip it with pliers. Either pull the rod out by hand or grip the broken piece with channel locks and slide it out a little. Grip the metal rod behind the handle with pliers to hold it still and keep it from spinning while you replace the T-handle.[2]
  3. Turn the T-handle counterclockwise by hand to unscrew it. Keep holding the rod down with your pliers. Use your free hand to spin the handle. Keep turning the handle over and over it pops off of the end of the extension rod.[3]
    1. This is a great opportunity to wipe the threading down with a clean cloth. If the end of the rod looks a little yucky, just grab a clean rag and rub the threading to remove any gunk.
  4. Attach your new handle and turn it clockwise to install it. Do not release your grip with the pliers to keep the rod from sliding inside the waste valve. Slide your new handle over the end of the extension rod. Turn it clockwise until the threading catches. When it does, continue turning it by hand until you can turn it no further. Release the handle and the pliers to finish replacing the waste valve's handle.[4]

Installing a New Extension Rod and Handle

  1. Order a replacement rod and handle for your RV and throw on some gloves. If your valve won't open all the way or the extension rod gets stuck when you pull the T-handle, you must replace the extension rod. These pieces are not universal, so order a replacement rod and T-handle for your specific valve.[5]
    1. You may need to replace the extension rod and handle if your rod breaks or gets bent after years of use. A bent or broken rod will make it difficult to open or close the valve, which can keep your sewage from staying in the pipe behind the valve.
    2. Be sure to get both the aluminum rod and the T-handle. These pieces normally come together, but you may need to buy them separately from the manufacturer.
    3. You may need to measure the rod if the manufacturer makes handles in a variety of sizes. To do this, pull your rod out all the way and measure the entire length of the rod. The most common size is 72 inches (180 cm).
    4. This rod will cost roughly $5-10.
  2. Drain your tank before replacing the handle. Take your sewer hose and hook it up to the septic tank or sewer line you're draining it to. Close the connections on both ends and drain your tank by pulling the valve out. Slide a bucket under the faulty valve if your extension rod happens to be leaking. Drain your tank the same way you normally do.[6]

    Tip: There are 2 tanks on your RV, the gray and the black tank. The gray tank is for dirty water from the shower and sink, while the black tank is for the toilet. Drain whichever tank is getting the new handle—you do not need to drain both of them.

  3. Unscrew the old extension rod using pliers or channel locks. Pull the valve out as far as you can and grip the extension rod with pliers or channel locks. Use another set of pliers or channel locks to hold the drain valve rod in place. Rotate the extension rod counterclockwise to unscrew it from the valve.[7]
    1. Just to clarify here, there are 2 rods connecting to your drain valve. The extension rod is the portion closest to the T-handle. The piece that sticks out of the base is attached directly to the drain valve. If you need to replace this piece, you need to replace the entire assembly as described in the next section.
    2. You can probably rotate the extension rod by hand once you loosen it with the pliers or channel locks.
  4. Slide the new extension rod over the drain valve rod. Take the replacement rod and slide the open end over the threading on the drain valve rod. Rotate it clockwise by hand until the threading catches.[8]
  5. Tighten the rod by hand and install the new T-handle. Continue turning the extension rod by hand until you can't rotate it any further. Once the extension rod is attached to the drain valve rod, screw the T-handle into the end of the extension rod by hand. Turn it clockwise until you can't rotate the handle any further.[9]

Changing the Entire Waste Valve

  1. Order a replacement waste valve and throw on some nitrile gloves. Unlike the extension rods and T-handles, waste valves are universal. They do come in 2 different sizes, though. Measure the diameter of the sewer pipe and get a 1.5 in (3.8 cm) or 3 in (7.6 cm) replacement valve based on the size of your pipe. Put on some nitrile gloves since you may get some waste water on your hands while doing this.[10]
    1. These valves get really dirty over time and they may wear down. You may need to replace the entire valve if it leaks when the extension rod isn't open or the rod won't come out all the way.
    2. These waste valves will cost $20-40 depending on what kind of handle you want. Some have caps that you twist to open and close while others have the standard extension rod set up. Some of them have a built-in pipe to extend the location of the rod and some have clear pipes so you can monitor the water as you drain your sewage.
  2. Slide a container underneath the junction where the valve and pipe meet. Slide a bucket or empty storage container under the valve where the extension rod sits. You are going to take this piece off and there will be waste water dripping all over the place, so do not skip out on this step.[11]
    1. Unfortunately, this process may get a little messy. You're dealing with a pipe that carries waste, so be prepared for some funky odors.
  3. Drain and flush your tank to remove any existing waste. Before you can replace the valve, you must flush the tank. Hook your sewer hose up to the tank and attach the other end to a septic tank or sewer line. Open the valve and drain the tank completely. Remove the sewer lines and close the valve when you're done.[12]
    1. You can make the system even cleaner if you'd like by flushing the toilet repeatedly or running the shower depending on which tank you're cleaning. This will send clean water through the pipes to clear them out.
    2. If you have a rinse setting on the tank, run it after you empty the tank. This is the best way to clean the system out.
  4. Unscrew the 4 bolts holding the waste valve in place. There are 4 screws or nuts holding the valve in place. They are on the rectangular lip of the valve. Inspect these screws or nuts to see if you need a flathead, Phillips head, or wrench to take them off. Then, unscrew each of these nuts or screws to unlock your waste valve.[13]

    Tip: This can be kind of tough depending on the location of the valve. If your waste valve is tucked under the vehicle, you may need to crawl underneath or reach behind the sewer line to access the screws.[14]

  5. Slide the old valve out and lubricate your new flanges if necessary. Once the screws or nuts are removed, lift the entire piece out by hand. Take your new valve out of the box and read the instructions. If the 2 circular flanges are pre-lubricated, you're ready to go. If they aren't, rub them with a liberal amount of petroleum jelly to protect them during installation.[15]
    1. The new valve will come in 2 parts with 2 round flanges. The 2 halves of the valve fit into one another and flanges fit around each pipe connection on the sides of the valve to reduce friction between the valve and the sewer pipes.
  6. Put your valve together and slide a flange over each pipe connection. Take the 2 halves of the valve and hold them together so that the openings for the pipes point away from the center. Then, slide the flanges over the 2 pipe connections.[16]
  7. Slide the new valve in between the waste pipes. Take the 2 halves of the valve and slide them in between the pipes where the old valve was attached. Push the 2 pipes against the waste valve on either side so that the pipes are flush with the openings on the valve. Squeeze the valve and 2 pipes together and line the screw slots on the valve up with the screw slots on the pipe frame.[17]
    1. This can kind of be awkward to do depending on the position of your pipes. Just take your time and check each connection where a pipe sits over a flange to ensure you get a tight fit. If there are any gaps here, your valve will leak when you empty the sewage.
    2. You can orient the valve in 4 directions since the screws are arranged in a square. Pay attention to where you're installing the handle to give the extension rod room to pull out.
  8. Tighten the screws or nuts to finish installing the new valve. Use a screwdriver or socket wrench to tighten each of the 4 screws or nuts. Tighten all 4 screws or nuts halfway to ensure they're even before tightening them as hard as you can. Once you can't turn the screws or nuts anymore, run some water or flush an empty toilet to make sure your new valve doesn't leak.[18]
    1. If the extension rod isn't built into the valve (it normally is), attach it to the valve afterwards by twisting it over the valve rod sticking out of the side.
    2. Flush the entire system with clean water after installing the new valve to make sure it doesn't leak.
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