How to Winterize an RV

If you enjoy camping but take to an RV rather than a tent, then you know there's work to be done at the end of the camping season. When you're done camping for the year, and it's time to leave your RV dormant for the winter, you need to...

Part 1 of 3:

Draining the Water and Drying the Water Lines

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Allow all water to drain from the fresh water holding tank. To drain the water from your RV, you'll need to open what's called the "petcock." Do not be tempted to drain the water heater yet -- that has to be done after you add antifreeze.^{[1] X Research source}
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Drain the black and gray holding tanks. You should also flush both tanks at this time.
1. If your RV does not come equipped with a built-in system, you should clean the tanks out with a wand or a product designed to clean both of the tanks.
2. Take all the tanks' contents to your local dump station.
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Open any cold and hot water faucets in the RV. That includes those for the sinks, toilet and shower. If you don't, air can't come out the other end!
1. Flush your toilets a few times to make sure all the water's gone!
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Attach a compressed air adapter to the RV's water lines. This is commonly known as a "blowout plug." It can be purchased at all hardware stores and probably even your local Walmart.^{[2] X Research source}
1. Technically, it's attached to the "Water Intake Fitting."
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Use a standard air compressor, such as one used to inflate tires, to blow air through the water lines. The air from the compressor will force any remaining water out of the lines. This isn't 100% necessary, but it helps to keep your antifreeze from becoming diluted.^{[3] X Research source}
1. Pressure should be 30 pounds per square inch (maximum of 50 psi).^{[4] X Research source}
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Replace caps on all the drains, and close all the cold and hot water faucets. Reclose your petcock, too.
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Detach the compressed air adapter from the RV. And the compressor along with it!

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Part 1 Quiz

When should you drain the water heater?

After you drain the fresh water holding tank.

Not quite! It's vital that you wait until the right moment to drain your water heater. While it's tempting, you shouldn't start draining the heater immediately after emptying the holding tank. Guess again!

After you add antifreeze.

Correct! It's essential that you wait until after you add antifreeze. This is because even though the heater is drained, there is still moisture in the lines that could potentially freeze. Read on for another quiz question.

After you drain your black holding tank.

Nope! Don't drain your water heater directly after draining the black holding tank. You also need to make sure you drain your black and gray holding tanks at the same time. Take both tanks' contents to a dump station. Click on another answer to find the right one...

After you force the remaining water out of the lines.

Try again! Forcing water out of the lines is helpful, but it's not the first step to draining the water heater. Use an air compressor to take remaining water out of the lines. Pick another answer!

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Part 2 of 3:

Adding Antifreeze to the Plumbing System

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Choose your method of adding antifreeze. There are three ways to do this:
1. From the inside using a water pump conversion kit
2. From the outside with a hand pump
3. With or without a bypass
  1. We'll be addressing the water pump with a bypass method. The science behind the pumps is the same. However, without a bypass, you just have to add much, much more antifreeze. Regardless of whether or not you have a bypass, do not drain your water heater before adding the antifreeze.
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Disconnect the water line that connects the fresh water tank to the fresh water pump. Attach the pump upstream of the water tank. That is, the antifreeze will go in before the tank.^{[5] X Research source}
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If possible, bypass your water heater. This will save you gallons and gallons of antifreeze. You don't have to do it, but it makes everything much simpler. A few RVs have them built in, but most do not.^{[6] X Research source} To bypass your water heater:
1. Turn off the water heater
2. Disconnect the water supply (the above step)
3. If installing for the first time, disconnect the hot and cold lines going in and out of the water heater
4. Connect the bypass, following the instructions on the package
5. Close off the same hot and cold lines and open the bypass
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Place the disconnected end of the water line in a jug of RV antifreeze. That's the pink kind, not the green kind. The pink kind is RV antifreeze, which is GRAS -- generally regarded as safe. The green kind is toxic. Not that you'd be swallowing any, but, you know, just in case.
1. Approximately 2 to 3 gallons (7.6 to 11.4 liters) of antifreeze should be enough to fill the RV's entire plumbing system, provided a bypass is installed. If you don't have one, you need as much antifreeze as the water heater can hold, usually 6 to 10 gallons.^{[4] X Research source}
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Turn on the fresh water pump, and allow it to run as it pulls the antifreeze into the plumbing system of the RV. Alternatively, as discussed, use a hand pump connected to the city water hookup.^{[7] X Research source}
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Start from the highest and work to the lowest point in the fresh water system. You'll probably start at the kitchen sink -- turn on the hot faucet and run it until it turns pink -- that is, filled with antifreeze. All the water has been flushed from the system! Then, run the cold faucet until it's pink, too.
1. The general order is kitchen sink, bathroom sink, shower, toilet, and outdoor shower. Run each of these until you see a strong shade of pink in each.
  1. You may need to flush the toilet several times until the RV antifreeze comes out at a steady rate.
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Pour about 3 cups (.72 liters) of antifreeze into the toilet and in each drain. This includes the washing machine, ice maker, and outside shower! Don't forget about those. The specifics of your RV will need to be taken into account here. Refer to your manual for more specific guidelines.
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Take the water line out of the antifreeze jug, and reconnect it to the fresh water tank.
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Locate the water heater, remove the plug and drain it. This is always done last.

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Part 2 Quiz

Why would you want to bypass the water heater while adding antifreeze?

Bypassing allows you to use green antifreeze.

Not quite! Green antifreeze is not safe and should always be avoided. Green means it's toxic. Even though you won't ingest the antifreeze, it is always recommended that you use pink antifreeze, even if you're going to bypass the water heater. Try again...

Bypassing allows you to drain the water heater before adding antifreeze, which is more efficient.

Nope! You never want to drain the water heater first. There is always moisture left over in the water heater and adding antifreeze first keeps that moisture from freezing and expanding inside your tubing. Guess again!

Bypassing the water heater saves you time and antifreeze.

That's right! A bypass can save you many gallons of antifreeze and the process is faster. If your RV doesn't have a built-in bypass system, you can purchase one at most hardware stores. Read on for another quiz question.

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Part 3 of 3:

Completing the Final Details

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Remove all food, laundry, and valuable items. Kind of a big duh, huh? The last thing you want is an exploded two-liter of orange soda all over your fridge. Not to mention mice and ants.^{[8] X Research source}
1. And as for valuable items, why would you leave them in an RV for six months? And the laundry, well, it's just best to leave everything clean so when you come back in the spring, there's a lot less work to do.
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Fix anything that's broken. Your RV is going to be sitting and stewing for a while -- not good for any machine (or human for that matter). To make sure it makes it through, fix everything now. You'll be glad you did.
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Cover all vents and holes. Hopefully you already have some type of mesh guard for your exhaust pipe and whatnot to protect against mice, but make sure all the vents and holes are covered now. You don't want birds (think of the roof), rodents (pipes), or bugs (seams) making your RV home.^{[9] X Research source}
1. Check the entire RV for places that bugs or animals may be able to get into. Just because you're not using it doesn't mean they should get to!
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Take the weight off the tires. If you leave that much weight on the one side of the tires, they could grow weak over time. So leave your RV on blocks, taking the pressure off the tires.^{[10] X Research source}
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Cover it with a breathable material. While you don't want snow and rodents getting into your RV, you also don't want mold and mildew to start growing underneath your tarp. So if you do cover it, cover it with a material that breathes.^{[11] X Research source}
1. You may want to put rags on top of the sharp corners of your RV so that breathable material doesn't rip. For good measure!

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Part 3 Quiz

What is more likely to happen if you cover your RV with a tarp?

You'll grow mildew.

Yup! You're more likely to grow mold and mildew if you use a tarp. Mice, birds, and bugs will be stuck outside, but without a breathable material covering the RV, mildew can quickly become a problem. Read on for another quiz question.

Mice will get inside the pipes.

Nope! A tarp is an excellent protection against rodents. To be extra safe, you should cover your pipes with mesh protection. Guess again!

Birds will make a nest on your roof.

Not quite! A tarp can effectively protect your RV against an invasion of birds. You should also make sure all vents and holes are covered. Try another answer...

Bugs will crawl inside the seams.

Not necessarily! A well-fitted covering is a great way to keep bugs out, providing you also remove all food sources. You should also cover vents and holes to eliminate entry points. Try again...

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